Fashion Designer Gemma Kahng has staying power!

What is the first thing that you think of when you hear of New York? Lots of people would say that it would be fashion. Yes, New York is all about fashion. As most people think about fashion when they talk about New York, I’ve been dreaming about meeting people who work in the fashion industry when I decided to intern at Asiance in New York. One day, I attended an event called, “Fashion Matters” and met several famous Asian-American designers work in New York. Out of the 6 designers, I was totally intrigued by Gemma Kahng’s work and her opinion about fashion.
What is the first thing that you think of when you hear of New York? Lots of people would say that it would be fashion. Yes, New York is all about fashion. As most people think about fashion when they talk about New York, I’ve been dreaming about meeting people who work in the fashion industry when I decided to intern at Asiance in New York. One day, I attended an event called, “Fashion Matters” and met several famous Asian-American designers work in New York. Out of the 6 designers, I was totally intrigued by Gemma Kahng’s work and her opinion about fashion. I bet you will love her work when you see it includes Madonna’s outfit that she made.

Designer Gemma Kahng was born and raised in Korea. She came to the United States with her family when she was 14 years old. She enrolled at the Art Institute of Chicago, majoring in Fashion Design. As soon as she graduated, she came to New York City to start her career as a fashion designer. .

Afterward the event, I met Gemma at Starbucks near her office in the fashion district. She gave me a big hug with a beautiful smile. Here is Gemma Kahng’s interview filled with passion and lots of laughter.

ASIANCE: Please talk about yourself. How did you start your career as a fashion designer?

Gemma: In my generation, women growing up in Korea never had to have a career. The only thing your parents expected of you was to be is a good wife. I never thought about having a career when I was in Korea. But just after I came here I realized that women work and have their own identities not only just being a wife. Then I thought I have to find my own career. For me, fashion was just perfect. I always have known how to sew, draw and make stuff which is kind of training to be a good wife. I was really good at these things and it was natural for me, more than other things. So, fashion made a lot of sense for me. I went to art school and graduated from Chicago Art Institute. Now Chicago Art Institute is big but at that time they had a small Art Department and it was very avant-garde. I had a chance to express myself or whatever fantasy I had and the school really encouraged me to be myself. Going to Art School and taking all the classes made me just happy. I remember that I was very happy that I chose fashion.

ASIANCE: As you mentioned, you were born and raised in Korea. So after you came to the U.S, you might have had some difficulties, like a language barrier. Were there any hardships in your work field?

Gemma: Not at all. Right now Asian people are so accepted, especially in fashion. There are so many very successful Asian designers. Not all are Korean. Some are Chinese. Chinese, Japanese and Korean are all similar as Asian people. Being an Asian or Korean, I don’t have any problem and I don’t see any of that.

ASIANCE: Have you ever tried to harmonize Asian culture of what you learned when you were young and Western culture in your work?

Gemma: Yeah,always. I think as an immigrant, I am like two people. I am Korean. I mean, I was raised in Korean belief and a very unique history, which I feel very proud of it. And here, the U.S, it’s very different. So I had to pick something with me and withdraw something away. In addition, being a Korean and a woman, I have always learned to be humble by my parents. For example, you are not supposed to say that you are great. If you say that, oh my god, you are considered that you are completely bad. Well, I am still struggling. I mean you can’t be just humble here in the U.S. I don’t think it’s good to be arrogant because people might get annoyed. But you cannot be just humble in business. So I had to unlearn that. However, there are some things I really appreciate about being Korean. We, Koreans, are not that greedy as American people. Also we have very high integrity. We do the right thing and work hard. We don’t steal or cheat. So I think those things are very Korean things. I don’t want to say that American people aren’t like that but it’s a very Korean philosophy. For a lot of Korean people, the priority is being right, rather than making money. They place integrity before money and I think it’s very nice.

ASIANCE: After you graduated Chicago Art Institute, you moved to NY and started you career in fashion working as an assistant. Then, a few years later you started your own business, launching your own brand. How different was that from being an assistant to being an owner?

Gemma: Well, working as assistant, you are there to serve your boss whatever they need. You don’t have to think about who you are. You don’t really have to have a very strong identity. You just do whatever you are supposed to do. Whereas, being a designer and having your own label, you have to be very, very secure with who you are. For that doesn’t just happen. You really need to do a lot of research and you have to learn about yourself. You are different from the rest of the designers in terms of what represents you and your label. So, every step of the way, you have to learn and then improve your image and who you are.

ASIANCE: Your first collection was a huge hit in the fashion industry. There were more than 30 top retail accounts opening across the country and your collection was featured in a full page editorial in Vogue Magazine. How did you feel at that time?

Gemma: I was like numb. I couldn’t believe it. Hahah! I couldn’t believe it. I had no expectation whatsoever. Every single appointment I had order from clients. Oh my god, I really couldn’t believe it. You have to also remember I was very naive about the business and the economy at that time. It was 1990 and there was an economic recession. In that period, nobody bought anything. I was clueless and I didn’t know what was going on in the economy field. I just started my business without even thinking it was recession. For me, it was such a successful time and my business tripled and quadrupled. I never felt we were in recession.

ASIANCE: Yes, It was very successful!

Gemma: Yes it was. But now this recession, I feel it.

ASIANCE: Oh really? So, what was the most impressive collection among several collections you’ve done?

Gemma: Of mine?

ASIANCE: Yes, of yours.

Gemma: Well, I don’t know. For me, all collections are kind of like children. I know one is better than the other but I love all of them. So it’s very hard to say one. Also, I think even being commercial doesn’t mean it’s bad or ugly. It just means that you got it all and figured it out. Then you’re offering what people are looking for. So it’s very hard to say which one is my favorite. Hopefully the next one! hahah

ASIANCE: Yeah! I am so excited to see your next collection. What is the hardest process when you are working?

Gemma: Yes designing is not easy. I have to go through all the options. I am basically influenced by the history, the culture, and the way we live now. For me, choosing one and eliminating all the others, it’s very hard because I want it all. But I have to decide and have one. There is only one identity that goes with my name. So, I have to be very, very tough when it comes to editing. And that’s hard because I love a lot of things but I can’t not have all of them. So, basically, having a very strong view about who you are is very important.

ASIANCE: Does anything here particularly inspire you when you are designing?

Gemma: I get really excited when I see something that I’ve never seen before. I am so fascinated whatever it is. For example, when I see people from other countries doing their hair in certain ways OH MY GOD, I am so excited. So, I do a lot of research to know what’s going on and what’s been done not only by other designers but also just in general. I am looking at different time and history. It’s very fun to find something very unusual and strange.

ASIANCE: Oh, I totally agree with you. Seeing something new and unfamiliar is very exciting! Well, when do you feel the most satisfied?

Gemma: When I see somebody wearing my clothes and they look so good. Also, something good happens to them. For example, one of my clients, she went to a party wearing my dress. A guy just fell in love with her. It turned out that he was a millionaire. When she told me how she met him and the dress that she wore was mine I was happy. It’s very rewarding. I just like to make people happy. People look great wearing my dress and having a great time. I feel happy, too.

ASIANCE:: That’s a great story. I wish I could have that chance like a girl who met a millionaire. Hahah!

Gemma: Hahah!!

ASIANCE: So would you want to have your collection in Korea or somewhere in Asia some day?

Gemma: I would love to do in Korea. But it’s a little tricky. Because when they want to import a foreign designer, I guess they are more interested in a foreign designer from a different country, not like Korean designer. I think if I make it big in New York and work on it, I can be big in Korea.

ASIANCE: I hope I can see your store in Korea.

Gemma: That will be great!

ASIANCE: What does fashion mean to you?

Gemma: Oh my god. Fashion means everything for me. To summarize it in a short sentence, it’s like representing what’s going on now. I think that’s what it is. Fashion doesn’t really stop at clothing. Obviously, it included shoes and accessories. It’s just something that people are in the mood for.

ASIANCE: What is your next goal that you want to achieve?

Gemma: Well, business has been pretty tough. The recession didn’t help business. I was very successful before but I had to take a little break. I took off a few years to reorganize my business and also recreate myself. So I had to step away a little bit. I mean, I didn’t really move away from fashion, of course not. But I had to stop being a business woman for a certain period. So now I am back. Therefore, my next goal is raising my business in a lot of stores and for a lot of clients who appreciate my clothes. And then to be in Korea! Soon.

ASIANCE: Lastly, is there anything you want to say to the younger generation who want to work in the fashion field?

Gemma: Yeap! We all know that fashion is very glamorous and fascinating. But it’s very hard. I think you have to decide that you are going to devote your life before you start because you can’t be half away. When it comes to being a designer and coming out with your own brand, everything else comes secondary. Unfortunately, it’s very hard to balance the normal life and making your dreams come true. You have to be very very, very devoted. And sometimes even with all of them, it doesn’t work as you expect. There is always risk that you have to take. So be ambitious because if it works, it’s worth it.

As a Korean I was very proud of her work and success. As a woman, I was very inspired by her passion for her career and life. Have faith and work on whatever you want to do, Asiance readers! And make sure you visit Gemma Kahng’s website. www.gemmakahng.com