Motoko encourages your individual beauty

How do they do it?

Hello Motoko,

My question is regarding makeup brand & application process? I greatly admire the makeup of the Lebanese models. Their makeup is how I would like mine… a good example is Haifa Wehbe. Her foundation (skin), brows, and eye makeup is ALWAYS done so perfectly. What brand of foundation and eye wear do they typically use for her? Could you give some direction as how to do the eyes like that without me giving myself “black-eyes”? Also, my brows have always had a rounded shape, but my goal is to get them like hers. I’ll include a couple pics by link… I hope they come through to you okay. Thank you for your help! With all your skill and talent, I knew you would be the one to ask!
Michelle C.

Hi Michelle,

I checked the websites of Haifa Wehbe and I agree, she is definitely beautiful. But before I give out some suggestions, I just want to say a few things.

It’s great to be inspired by other people’s beauty, but remember when you see celebrities in magazines, there’s a great deal of digital retouching, special lighting and soft-focus lenses that go into the final look. Inspiration is a great thing, but ultimately you should try to bring out the best of your own individual beauty!

But here are some tips to help you get there:

Foundation

The key to flawless looking skin is to use LESS foundation and LESS powder. The less makeup you use, the more beautifully your skin will shine through. Of course, if you have problem skin, you can cover up the problem areas only, but really, less is more!

Haifa Wehbe

If you already have good skin, you can use a more sheer foundation and then use concealer to cover up any small imperfections (under the eyes or discolorations). If you need more coverage, you can use something with more coverage, like a cream-based or full-coverage foundation. To make your skin look smooth & even (and avoid thick application), use a sponge to apply the foundation and dab it lightly and frequently all over the face.

(I am not crazy about using cream foundation for daily make-up. Cream foundation is good for coverage, but it tends to be thick-looking and hard to get rid of all at one time.

You have to take care of your skin very well to keep it in good condition.

If you think your face just has a few imperfections, it’s better to just use foundation or concealer to cover up those areas that need it.

After foundation, use a translucent powder or colored powder (same tone as your skin) to set your foundation and make your skin matte.

Haifa Wehbe

Some products I suggest:

*Liquid Foundation: Prescriptives:Traceless, Stila: Sheer Color & illuminating Liquid, L’oreal: Flawless Make-up, Estee Lauder: Individualist, Chanel:Teint Fluide Universal

*Cream Foundation: Joe Blasco cream foundation, Bobby Brown: Foundation Stick, RCMA (found at professional beauty supply stores), Stila: Perfecting Foundation Stick Teint Exquis, Shu Uemura: Nobara Cream Foundation, Estee Lauder: Maximum Cover and etc.

Brows

Brows are very specific to the individual, so I’d really have to meet you to see the natural shape of your brows as well as your bone structure to give you the best answer, but here are some helpful tips. (it’s a little hard to describe, but here it goes!)

Everyone’s brows have a “peak”. Usually someone’s natural peak falls on the outer edge of the iris. Use this peak as a reference point for your shaping. Using an eye pencil, draw a line along the top edge of your brow: from the starting point (near the inner corner of your eye) to the peak, and then from the peak to the end of your brow. This should serve as a clear visual category_ideline.

Pluck sparingly to minimize the round shape, using the lines as a category_ide. Use a brow powder or pencil to accentuate the shape and fill in the color of your brows on a daily basis. Anastasia is a line that offers lots of fantastic brow products.

The best solution is to go to a professional brow shaper to have them done, and to maintain the shape at home! But be picky! Ask around and get some recommendations for good shapers!

Eyes

As an Asian, it’s sometimes difficult to do a smoky eye because we have extra skin on the eyelid and don’t have a “crease” like most non-Asians do. So, it’s very easy for a smoky eye to look “raccoony” on an Asian eye.

Here’s my tip: keep everything closer to the lashline to avoid a “black eye”.

Use a sheer wash of a neutral color (like a taupe/tan/bronzy) on your lid and extend it outside, fading it at the ends. Apply a very dark smoky color (grey, smoky black, dark navy, etc), concentrating along the lash lines and then fading slightly up onto the lid.

Line the eyes with black or any dark color (but not brown) pencil on the top and bottom, making a very thick, dark line. The key is to make the top and bottom eyeliner to connect (so there’s no break in the lines). Next, for that really dramatic look, double up the liner with a liquid or cream eyeliner along the lashes lines and wing tip the edges. Blend the eyeliner with more of the dark smoky color. Make sure the bottom liner is not too thick.

Finally, apply lots of mascara on the top and bottom lashes.

Some products I suggest:

*Eye pencil: MAC: Engraved/ Phone Number, Stila Dural Shadow & Liner: Onyx/ Indigo, Shu Uemura Drawing Pencil: 03 M Blue, Nars: Mambo/Kyoto laura mercier: Stormy Grey etc.

*Eye liquid or cream liner: MAC: Fluidline, L’oreal: Liquid Liner, Cargo Smoky eye & Eyeliner Duo: Katmanda, laura mercier: Black caviar eye liner etc.

*Eye Shadow for eyelid: Nars: Lola Lola, Cargo: Bavaria, laura mercier: Truffle/Bronzer, Estee Lauder: Bronzer, MAC:Saddle/ Cork etc.

*Smoky Eye Shadow for near the lashline: MAC: Ebony/Black, Contrast, Givenchy: bressy black etc.

Lips

For the lips, use any natural/nude light color. If you want to use lip liner, choose a similar color of lipstick.

How do I sharpen my nose?

Dear Motoko,

I have a pear-shape nose, where it’s quite broad at the end. What can I do to narrow it and make it look sharper? Thanks a zillion. Looking forward to your fabulous advice
Christine

Hi Christine,

A quick & easy solution is to highlight the bridge of your nose. A highlighter does just what it says, it will make the area seem “higher”. I suggest using a cream highlighter – ”it’s easier to maneuver.

Just use middle or index finger and apply it in a sliding motion along the bridge of your nose. If you have light skin, a pearl color is a good shade. For darker skin tones, try a golden color.

For a more advanced solution, you can apply a 2nd contour color to the sides of your nose. Choose a foundation or concealer (again, a cream base is easier) which is 1-3 levels darker than your skin tone. (If you have a light skin, choose 1~2 levels darker).

Apply the darker color from the side of your eyes toward the tip of the nose on each side of your nose. If you think the sides of your nose around the eyes already has natural shadow, then apply the contour around the area where the nose becomes broader and extend it toward the end. Blend the color well with a concealer brush or your middle finger.

For a more dramatic contouring, you can use certain eyeshadow shades for contouring. Taupe or light chocolate brown shades can be used to make a contour with an eyeshadow brush or your finger. Pick up the shadow a little bit from the container, shake off the excess pigment and apply to your skin. But be warned! This technique needs careful blending. It is hard to explain this tecnique by words — I wish I could show you how to do this.

Some products I suggest

*Highlight: Any concealer lighter than your skin tone (1~2 levels), Nars Creamy eye shadow: Cosmic Girl/ El dorado, lura mercier shimmer bloc: Mosaic

*Contour (Shadow): MAC: Espresso/Mystery, laura mercier: Coffe ground/ American coff etc.

Leave your makeup questions for Motoko below and she’ll gladly answer each and every one. (leave by the 15th of each month to be featured in the next issue)