Chanel’s Bold Makeup Czar Embraces the Classics
Mr. Philips, the Belgian hired three years ago as Chanel’s creative director for makeup, has made his name with unconventional nail-polish colors—from the taupe-toned Particulière, to Jade green, to the Mimosa yellow due to hit stores in May. His bold take led him to design temporary tattoos for Chanel’s show two years ago. They were so striking that the company made a limited number for sale. Consumers snapped them up.
But fashion has swung back from flashy, youth-inspired looks over the past two years to more traditional styles, such as the camel coat, white shirt and shoulder bag. The trend has trickled down to makeup, too. Mr. Philips’s job will be to tone down his wilder instincts—while translating the trend into sales. His couture look at the January show was positively classic, using pink, silver and black around the eyes. His back-to-basics approach is now hitting cosmetics counters with a new Chanel lipstick line whose shades stick to a range of reds, roses and plums.
With the shift to more classic looks, red lipstick is back, with new high-profile launches from Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Dior, replacing the more youthful lip-gloss look popular for the past decade. Eyes are smoky, faces are bronzed. At the Chanel couture show, models’ nails were painted in Tendresse pale pink. Fashion editors cite the return of tastefulness and prettiness after years of flirty looks such as cat eyes.
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