Whitening, brightening, lightening products – what to look for, what to watch out for

August is here. By now, all of us have probably had at least 1 trip to the beach, numerous afternoons in the park, weekends hiking in the mountains, or lazy BBQs lounging at your neighbors’. We’ve gone through bottles of broad-spectrum sunscreen, the sun hat has become our constant companion, and some of us may even carry parasols. Despite such conscious efforts, the consequences of sun exposure are slowly making themselves apparent: Sun spots, age spots, or in more technical terms: hyper-pigmentation, oftentimes the result of sun damage combined with genetic predisposition or hormonal changes (women taking the pill are more susceptible).

People who have visited the cosmetic counter of Asian department stores or drugstores are surely familiar with the plethora of cleansers, toners, lotions and serums that promise to “whiten” the skin. In recent years, Western skincare consumers have caught on to the trend of perfectly even-toned skin and how to prevent and reverse the signs of sun damage. As a result, more and more skincare brands in the US offer products that promise to miraculously brighten skin and promote an even complexion. With so many products available on the market, what ingredients should you be looking for and what essential points should you consider when purchasing a “brightening” product?

First of all, there are 2 categories of products that will help address skin tone and pigmentation issues: medicated products and non-medicated products, in which the latter category includes botanical options.

Medicated products contain Hydroquinone as the active ingredient, which is the only ingredient approved by the FDA to make “lightening” claims. Products with 2% Hydroquinone can be purchased without a prescription at most drug stores or specialty stores, while anything above 2% Hydroquinone requires a prescription from a physician. Most prescription-only lightening creams contain 4% Hydroquinone, considered the “gold standard” amongst dermatologists. Hydroquinone works, period. However, this chemical ingredient is not without considerable side effects, including allergic reactions and irritation. People with especially sensitive skin, like myself, often cannot tolerate Hydroquinone. I have tried using Hydroquinone twice in my life in hopes of getting rid of a cluster of freckles on my right cheekbone. By day 2 of applying a 2% Hydroquinone cream, I had developed red, itchy patches on that cheek. Hydroquinone is obviously not a viable option for me. However, I do know a number of people who absolutely swear by it, and in severe cases of hyper-pigmentation, it may be the only truly effective option. For all those with sensitive skin and/or mild cases of sun damage, there are several non-irritating options, including some excellent botanical ones.

The list of non-medicated brightening ingredients is long, and most products contain a combination of active ingredients. Botanical options include Kojic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Licorice Root Extract, Chamomile Extract, Raspberry Extract and Turmeric Extract. Turmeric in particular has caught the attention of nutritionists and scientists in recent years, as this spice, found in many curry dishes, shows powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. In addition, Turmeric is an age old skincare remedy in Southeast Asia for addressing uneven pigmentation. Effective non-botanical brightening ingredients include Vitamin C, Retinaldehyde and Retinol. Oftentimes, brightening products of Western brands contain AHA (Alpha Hydroxi Acid) to exfoliate the skin and therefore facilitate penetration of the brightening ingredients. Beware of AHA-based products, however, because it can make skin even more sensitive to the sun. Darker skin tones sometimes react to AHA with increased melanin production, which can make matters worse. Because of such sensitivity issues, AHAs are rarely found in Asian skincare lines.

Whether you choose medicated products or non-medicated products, your brightening treatment plan will only be as effective as your sun-protection plan. Take your time to find the best brightening product for you, and embark on your treatment plan once you know you can realistically reduce exposure to the sun.

If you get a chance, check out the skin care line Yoshika started with her Asian sisters www.juaraskincare.com.