Dry skin survival – “ what to look for in a moisturizer

Browsing the aisles at any beauty retailer or drug store, you would think that dry skin problems have long been extinct. Rows and rows of moisturizers that promise to relieve dry skin. And yet, dry skin, especially dry sensitive skin, remains one of the most persistent skin problems. Genetic predisposition obviously plays a big role. I have read in several publications that Japanese skin tends to have a fragile skin barrier (a protective barrier of skin cells and fat that help keep hydration inside the skin and prevent bacteria and irritants from entering it) and react more easily to harsh products. This would explain my naturally dry, sensitive skin. Harsh climate plays a significant role, as does senseless and excessive heating in offices, apartments and cars. Or perhaps some moisturizers are simply not quite effective in addressing chronic dryness. Well, we can’t really change the climate or the centralized heating systems, but we can learn to pick the right skincare products especially moisturizers, in order to alleviate dry, sensitive skin, and avoid products that make the problem worse.

First of all, to avoid stripping the skin during the cleansing process, stay away from harsh detergents, primarily Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. Gentle alternatives that also foam nicely include Cocamidopropyl Betaine or Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate. A totally different approach is using cleansing oils, which I have adopted recently and highly recommend. Use of cleansing oils are not as widespread in the US as they are in Asia, and the most widely available cleansing oils in the US market, e.g. Shu Uemura and SK-II, are rather expensive. My tip: Go to a Japanese grocery store. They have plenty of great cleansing oil products for under $20.

After cleansing your skin, don’t go right to the moisturizer. Rather, apply a hydrating toner to saturate your skin with water. I am not referring to the alcohol-based, astringent toners. Those are absolutely taboo for dry skin! Some of you may remember my October article about the role of toners. Hydrating toners can significantly improve dry skin with powerful water-binding ingredients, including Hyaluronic Acid, Tamarind Seed Extract, Glycerin, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Honey or Sugar.

Once your skin is thoroughly saturated with hydration, you need to apply a moisturizer that helps prevent the skin hydration from evaporating, as well as helps repair and strengthen your skin barrier. The first can be achieved with pretty much any oil or wax. When it comes to ingredients that improve your skin barrier, however, 3 distinct elements are key: Fatty Acids, Cholesterol and Ceramides. They are the building blocks that make up our skin barrier, and therefore putting them back into the skin will help with dryness and chronic sensitivity. Ingredients to look for include a variety of plant oils such as Candlenut Oil, Borage Seed Oil, Avocado Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Rice Bran Oil, which are all rich in essential fatty acids. Cholesterol is either listed as cholesterol or Sterol, or comes disguised in special plant ingredients such as unsaponified avocado oil. Ceraminde is usually listed as such. Reading ingredient labels on products can be daunting and time consuming at first, but after a while your eyes will start recognizing key ingredients quickly. It will help you pick out the products that are right for you!

Moisturizers I have tried and like include:

• Atopalm’s MLE Cream ($36; www.skinstore.com)
• Dove’s Sensitive Skin Facial Cream (at $7.00 seriously the best value; www.drugstore.com)
• Sofina’s Vital Rich Milk III for dry skin ($40 and my favorite; www.ebay.com)
• Peter Thomas Roth’s Ceramide Night Renewal ($52; www.sephora.com)
• Eau Thermale Avene’s TriXera Emollient Cream. This super-rich cream is for the body and probably the most moisturizing formula I have ever experienced. It’s not suitable for the face, however! ($16; www.dermstore.com)

www.juaraskincare.com