Skincare resolution for the new year: Exfoliation 101

New year holidays are our favorite time to start fresh and do things better in the future. Better eating habits, loosing weight, being kinder to others, working more/ less, those and other vows make it onto the list of those that wish to shed the old and embrace the new and improved you.

What better time to vow to do for your skin that literally sheds the old and brings out the new? Freeing your skin of old, dead skin cells through exfoliation is amongst the easiest and most important steps to achieve and maintain a fresh, radiant complexion. The natural cycle for skin cell turnover is 3-4 weeks, but as we age, this self-exfoliation process takes longer and longer. It’s no wonder that with age, skin’s natural radiance doesn’t come so natural any more. In order to maintain your skin’s glow, it is essential to help it along in the exfoliation process.

What are the key points to remember when you choose a product, and what is the proper way of using it?

Exfoliation can be categorized into two broad options: Physical and chemical exfoliation. Physical exfoliation means that small particles are used to free skin of old surface-cells. Scrubs fall into that category, as well as micro-dermabrasion creams. Chemical exfoliation on the other hand helps loosen the bond between dead skin cells and new, so that they come off more easily. Products containing AHA (alpha hydroxyl acid), BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) or certain enzymes are common choices in this category.

Which one is better? Physical or chemical, both will get the job done. The thing to keep in mind is your skin type and also that neither option must unnecessarily irritate or harm your skin.

Physical exfoliants

Whether you opt for a cleansing scrub, scrub cream or scrub mask, the key with all scrubs is particle shape, size, as well as how much pressure you use when you apply the scrub on your face. Exfoliating particles for the face should be small, perfectly round or at least have no jagged edges as that will hurt the skin and lead to redness, inflammation and even break outs.

In fact, if your skin is acne-prone, you should stay away from scrubs, as they can further exacerbate the problem. Chemical peels in this case provide a more effective option.

Perfectly round particles include jojoba beads and even synthetic (plastic) beads, and they are the gentlest on the skin. Loofah, bamboo, sugar or shell grains (apricot or walnut shelles) tend to be a bit rougher and are more appropriate for less-sensitive skin types or the skin on your body.

Whichever product to choose, the pressure you apply is key. Just because these products are called scrubs doesn’t mean you should scrub your skin. Apply only so much pressure that you can feel just a little bit of the grittiness on the skin. Don’t worry, those dead skin cells will come off without vigorous scrubbing. Using a scrub once or twice a week is plenty. No matter how resilient and strong your skin, you should never use a scrub daily.

Chemical exfoliants

Chemical exfoliation and enzyme peels can provide wonderfully even results, but again, gentleness and skin-tolerance is key. Some people do not react well to certain AHA-based products. Glycolic acid (one form of AHA) tends to be more aggressive than fruit acid or lactic acid (derived from milk). Some enzyme peels also provide gentler exfoliation. Darker skin types and Asian skin especially have to be careful of chemical peels, as they can lead to skin discoloration. AHAs and BHAs have received some controversy in the past couple of years about their long-term safety. Research has been inconclusive, but what appears to be certain is that exposing skin to too much chemical peels too often for too long can create long-term problems including hypersensitivity, ruddiness, redness and chronic irritation. Depending on skin types, at-home chemical peel treatments, depending on skin type and product should be used once to three times a week, but definitely not daily, contrary to some product directions.

Enjoy the new radiant you!

Some options I have tried and liked:

Facial scrubs:

Fresh Sugar Face Polish $55.00 for 4.2 oz, available at www.sephora.com. This is a truly invigorating scrub, ideal for normal to dry skin that leaves dull skin incredibly radiant. I love Fresh products for its unfailingly gorgeous scents, and this oil-based sugar scrub manages to smell both earthy and refreshing.

Kiehl’s Pineapple Papaya Facial Scrub, $25.00 for 3.4 fl. oz, available at www.kiehls.com.
A popular classic that combines the idea of an acid peel and physical exfoliation. Great for all skin types.

The Body Shop Tree Tea Oil Facial Scrub, $10.50 for 3.7 oz, available at www.thebodyshop.com.
Another classic for a great price. The teat tree oil scent is a great pick-me up and a great choice also for men.

Microdermabrasion creams:

Dr. Brand Microdermabrasion, $75.00 for 1.7 oz, available at www.sephora.com.
This is one of the most popular products in the entire line of Dr. Brand. It’s not cheap but is said to make a truly visible difference. According to their own skincare advisory, however, very sensitive skin types and rosacea-prone skin should stay away from this product.

L’Oreal Dermo-Expertise ReFinish Micro-Dermabrasion Kit, $25.00 for 2 fl. oz of micro-dermabrasion exfoliator, and 1.7 fl. oz of post-treatment sunscreen, available at www.drugstore.com.
A great micro-dermabrasion cream for a good price. Unfortunately, the post-treatment sunscreen does not provide broad-spectrum protection, therefore not really valuable for sun-conscious people like myself. Still, the quality of the microdermabrasion cream in a convenient tube can definitely compete with more expensive options.

Chemical peels:

Glytone Essentials Mini Peel Gel, $50.00 for 2 fl. oz, available at www.sephora.com.
I have written about this great, easy-to-use product before. It is strong enough to product results, and gentle enough for sensitive skin and can be used by all skin types, dry or oily.

MD Skincare Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel, $75.00 for 30 applications, available at www.sephora.com.
This is one of the top sellers in MD Skincare’s line. The pads make this product easy to use. I was gentle enough for me to use, but I would stay away from using it daily for long-term safety concerns.

SkinCeuticals C + AHA, $120 for 1 fl. oz, available at www.dermstore.com.
A great option of serum lovers. The double-punch of antioxidant Vitamin C and AHA surely produce results. The price tag may hurt a bit for such a small bottle but a little goes a long way.

Yoshiko’s skin care line with her Asian sisters www.juaraskincare.com